Crossing the border from Thailand to Laos over the Mekong Rver

The process from Chiang Khong, Thailand over the Mekong River to Hauy Xai, Laos including check out and check in to the other side can be easy but also easy to miss a step, so hopefully this post will give insight on the steps you need to go through.

Once you are in Chiang Khong, you will be excited or you should be. For me I was tired and warn down from the two months in Thailand, but was feeling the blood rush as I was embarking on a new country.Depending on the means of transportation you are traveling by, more than likely if you are coming from another region the driver will drop you off on the main soi/street short of the docks. If so, you can grab a tuk tuk taxi- or walk down to customs about half a kilometer from the main drop off. From the main road, walk down the hill, stop to the left of the boat ramp at a small blue building with an overhang where you will see people filling out papers on the left and people coming up from the Mekong River and singing in on the right. Not hard to miss. Grab a form, fill out the exit requirements give your passport through the small window to the person in the customs office. You won’t need any money to exit, so hold tight, the official will review your stay and if everything is ok, they will stamp you out of Thailand.

After you are stamped out you can walk down to get a boat taxi over the river.
Then proceed down till you see some steps down to the river bank. At the waters shore are a line of taxi boats, you will see some locals sitting under a tent charging a fixed 40 Baht charge to travel across the Mekong into Huay Xai Laos. Buy the ticket, no point in negotiating, they know you NEED to cross and are not lowering their price. It’s only a five minute boat ride.

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From the top of Chiang Khong, looking over the Mekong River to Laos and taxi boats.

Leaving Thailand
After buying a ticket you walk to any boat that is open, sit down on the wobbling boat, try not to be that person who falls. It happens, I saw someone spill. and get comfortable, or at least try. The trip across is a quick 5 minutes, enjoy the breeze. Once  you pick which boat to get on to remember try not to over pack all your friends into one boat, as you and your luggage will weigh it down and heaps of water will splash up into the boat as you cross. It is not fun with the water gets into the boat, I’ve seen people bucketing water out, and travelers getting their gear soaked. Just keep your backpack on, and sit one person to a bench as they are only about one meter/yard wide.

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my taxi boat pulling away from the river banks of Chiang Khong thailand0

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That is Thailand. Behind me is Laos, under me is the Mekong river. above me is the universe. I am here to explore them all.

Then on the other side enjoy and smile as you take your first step off the boat onto Laotian soil.

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My first step into Laos from the taxi boat.

Before I forget, DO NOT FORGET TO CHECK OUT
Oh yes this happens everyday here at this location I was told by an offical. People in a hurry to cross the river from Thailand to Laos forget or simply just walk past the customs check point in Chiang Khong to board the 40 Baht water taxi across the Mekong River, waiting line and find out an hour later that they have to go back and check out of Thailand. From my experience it was couple from England standing in front of me on the Laos side, like everyone else they waited in line had their entrance paper work ready and visa on arrival forms but were turned to go back across the border to get signed/stamped out of Thailand.

This was inevitably not just a hassle for them to go back across the Mekong river, up the banks wait in line check out walk through the process all over again but they lost time and missed their slow boat. thus had to spend the night in the city they hadn’t planned on and taking an extra day off their thirty day visa plans.

Checking into Customs in Huay Xai, Laos
Once off the old narrow taxi boat, Walk up the cement boat ramp, head right up some stairs, walk to the window that says VISA ON ARRIVAL  It is hear that you will fill out two different pieces of paperwork one small, one large, hand over your passport, one small ID photo, Depending on what country you come from the fee varies a few dollars, for US citizens it is 35 US Dollars. Then wait for them to review your document. You are granted a thirty day Visa on arrival.

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Welcome to Laos. Visa on Arrival

Once you are checked into Huay Xai, Laos, head further up the narrow road to a second checkpoint
Yes a second check point so keep your passport out. It is just a precaution for them to make sure everyone checked in so hand your passport to the guard. He will review the passport, they double check your documentation then waive you through. Make your way to the top of the street to a three way intersection. if you go any further you will be walking up over 100 steps to a temple.

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if you have come to thses steps rejoice you are now checked fully into Laos.

 So stop there and breath, then turn around and look at Thailand across the mighty Mekong River.

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Stand proud traveler, you made it! Pat yourself on the back or give your buddy and a local a high five.

My Mekong River Boat Crashed and I lived to tell about it. A story of my experience from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang.

I heard great things about the Mekong River Slow boat ride from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang so I thought why not.

So like you I researched a little mingling with other backpackers and decided on it.What to expect, I had no idea? I heard about these long boats that packed people in like sardines like the trains of India. Then other people said it was so relaxed and plenty of space to lay down and they would do it again any day. I guess like anything in life there will be different experiences for different people. And this one I had to find out on my own.

What does the inside look like I thought. After getting to the border I had some time to spare so I went down to the riverbed to inspect these Mekong river long boats that people were living in. Like floating trailers, I imaged the United States Mississippi River having long floating double wide trailers. But these slow boats were elegant in a rustic style. You knew you were in for something different, and you knew at this point you were in the heart of Southeast Asia.

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And the seats were transplanted from automobiles.

The day started out fine, I was first on board and picked out a really good seat by the window that allotted plenty of space out the window for 180 degrees of river and landscape. Not like on an airplane where you may be lucky to get your own small window the size of a human head. I recommend getting a seat along the side of course. I was three rows back on the left side shown in the photo above.

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The very stable foot bridge onto the boat

ALL ABOARD! So we waited and waited, the boat was to leave at 11am, but still we waited for more people. And to my expectations they packed the people in, put their luggage in the back in the engine room and shoved everyone locals and tourists alike wherever there was room. Joy.

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A crew member pushes with a bamboo stick.

Finally we left dock, backing out and heading down the river. The first two hours seems to be nice, that feeling of excitement you get when embarking on a new journey. Don’t get me wrong it was enjoyable. Then once the excitement passes I realized I was stuck in a boat. I thought maybe I could go up on top, but no. I am a large man six foot six stuck under a six foot ceiling of 8 hours. Also since my boat was packed, there was not much moving space. People were already sleeping on each other shoulders legs out the windows, people lying on the floor under seats. It was a packed mess. So I daydreamed looking out onto the Mekong River, soaking up the cool breeze.

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Mekong River Bamboo Dock

Some weird noises and the crew of the boat yelling at each other, no one on the boat seemed to really understand what was going on, then some more yelling from the back to the front.

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WHAT WAS THAT?

By this time the engine had shut down. We all knew then that our boat was floating without direction other than the mighty currents of the Mekong river. Some people sat up, others were still drunk from last night’s binge.  My new found Chinese friends were curious with a touch of shock and anxiety. As for me, I laughed and thought this is just all part of the package deal that we pay for in life. As so it began.

What was happening is the engine jammed and shorted out and the crew could not control what happened they said we hit something under the boat. As it is dry season and the river water is low, it could have been anything. So from the sounds of it it jammed up and then stalled, but that’s not the best part we were floating out of control and needed to get to safety. The crew, which just a few men dressed in normal local attire and two ladies selling from the mini bar/ the folks who lived on the boat I assume were all doing something moving around. I watched as our boat started turning towards the rocks.

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The motor on Boat number 1.

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One of the crew members tried to push our slow boat off the rocks.

Then A few boats passed but no one stopped to help. Our skipper was on a walky-talky calling in speaking to someone. All the words were in Laos.
I reviewed and assessed the situation; I had my valuables in my backpack under my seat and put my back pack on in case i had to abandon ship in a hurry. Yes I was taking them with me. But my back pack was in the back luggage compartment. Meanwhile we were headed straight for the river bed I held onto the side. Finally in a slow motion we glided up and slammed into the river bed, scratching the bottom of the boat, I imaged the shrieking sounds the iceberg made on the Titanic. Although nothing in comparison it still made for a good crashing noise. Unexpected turbulence added extra excitement. I thought this is going to be a long day.

After the boat hit land they told us to “no worry” and so Bob Marley  popped up in my head “no woman don’t cry” as I heard a few women in the back frantically making a fuse, I was busy with where to go, in case the current pulls us back out, I’d need to get off this ship wreck. I was the first one off the boat. I walked to the front and I knew we weren’t going to be moving for a while so I headed up to the bow, and jumped off onto dry land. I walked over to the side to snap a photo. Shown below.

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Our ship wrecked Mekong River  Boat.

After snapping this photo, I decided to go back onto the boat. I wanted to capture some photos from the scene.

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Everyone changing boats.

Finally after about twenty minutes of sitting around the crew told  everyone else to get off the boat.  Then as the last people were getting out, the boat of course weighed less, and started to turn- and the current did just what I thought, it pushed the boats back end down the river, but in time the men had tied the front of the boat to a tree on the banks. So the boat then just turned with the current now facing upstream. The men directed what seemed like a soft landing with bamboo rods and a few of the jumped out into the water. It was all a symphony of frantic Laotian boat crew and a bunch of hung over tourist all trying to figure out what is next. After all the mess of exchanging baggage and now sitting in new seats on wooden benches we were ready to leave again.
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A fellow backpacker helps move the bags after our slow boat ran aground.

But the rescue boat had too many people and it was stuck in the mud. Is this really happening I thought? So they asked for some of the people to go back onto the other boat that now flanked our rescue boat. Then The boat was able to float out of  area  but not before the others raced back on.  Now everyone was on, the luggage was all aboard and we were ready to go to Huay Xai, Laos, short on time I didn’t really care, from this point on I was all about the scenery of what was to be seen outside.

For me it was great to see not only the landscapes but to stop at small villages and pick up or drop of locals. I was in awe of the simple of these people. Watching the men and women load and unload from thin fishing boats along the waters, seeing the young men out in the water throwing fishing lines. Women doing laundry on the banks and children waving with great pleasure to show of a back flip into the cool refresh waters of their summer.

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Good morning Laos. House boat.

Outside the boat was a completely different story. It was vast and open, mountainous and ridged rock formations shot up out of the river with exuberance. Masses of white sand dunes flanked over the shorelines and were met by the lush green landscapes that carpeted the Mekong River inland. Every so often you could spot a few bamboo huts, some villages and people in transition of their every day life on the Mekong.

The down fall was the farmer’s burning’s,  it left the skies of a haze; the sun was just an orange ball floating in the sky. Not the most perfect picturesque you would ask for but I made lemonade out of the lemons, and tried to capture the journey.

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The smoggy sky’s provide an orange luminous sunset.

We passed by many farmers that were burning their crop; the sky was filling with smoke and left the sunset to be an eerie orange ball floating in the sky.

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Fisherman and his skinny boat on the Mekong River

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Water buffalo on the Mekong River, Laos

Towards the end of the first day, we were now doing what is not allowed, on the Mekong River at night, floating down the river. These boats are not to be out on the river after dusk, as the liability of having so many tourists and people as a whole, with trying to steer through the unpredictable currants and low water line is a recipe for disaster. A few people were concerned with this, as so was I. But in a short amount of time they had a make shift lighting system for us to see in the boat… and some lights outside as headlights. What seems to be a long day- ended up with us arriving before anymore worries would transpire to the dock to PAKBENG.

Once docked at Pakbeng I was without accommodation but that is standard for me. I did some research asked around who had what for what price, then followed by some negotiating, and had a nice place with hot showers, and wifi for just over 3 bucks or 100  Thai Baht. At this point you can still pay in Thai Baht, or Laos Kip, and they would never turn down USD, but they give you Kip for your change.

My advice, do not buy any guesthouse tickets on the boat from a Vendor. Wait till you get there, Get your feet off the boat grab your bag and head up the hill. You will be met by at least 10 guest houses offering you room for special price. Tell them how much you want to pay and for what price and I can assure you that you can strike a deal within ten minutes. If you want make a deal with your new friends or old friends, the more the merrier for them as this small down depends on the stop over from the slow boats. A small rustic village that is the most modern in the area caters to you, the traveler  It sells guest houses and over priced food. Enjoy it for a day, get up early and enjoy the sunrise.

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Locals unloading their baggage along the Mekong in the Pekbeng territory

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Jagged rock formations

The next day was a much more enjoyable ride for me and I think everyone else. No crashes or night vision needed. It was just an overall beautiful journey – but still cramped. I am sorry for the Europeans that had to sit on the luggage in the back. And the many people who had lay on the rumbling wood floor by the toilet. That must have been tough. But besides being sardines, I enjoyed it until the end.

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Mekong River Fisherman

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A local village man scales the rough terrain to fish.

But it wasn’t over. Before the Luang Prabang Port we were  dropped off. There was mass confusion when they told us this was the end. But this was not the Luang Prabang port that was in everyone’s guidebook that they were flipping through frantically, nor was it the port that the travel agent showed me back in Thailand. Nor was it the map that was talked about at the ticket office back up stream at Huay Xai. People were puzzled and so was I.

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Tourist and locals are forced to get off early before Luang Prabang.

There was mass confusion, everyone was getting off then getting on, sitting… then after thirty minutes we realized we had been doped. We needed to go up the bamboo rickety stairs to the top where there was a horde of Tuk-Tuk drivers all waiting to take us into town.

A scam or a way to increase the revenue being pumped into the town and local transport economy I was not sure. But the boats no longer seemed to go to port in Luang Prabang and they lied to us. To me it was “eh” another part of the trip.

But the part that was frustrating was that they charged us extra on top of our oat ticket, and it was non negotiable land transportation. Overall the experience was just that, an experience. It was hell in a boat. While it is was easy to feel uncomfortable in a small space on the Boat, falling into a daydream gaze while looking outside the boat could last for hours. The time seemed to have flashed by as I feel in love with wondering eyes across Laos made it a trip to remember. I hope that your experience is just that, an experience in the story of your life. All my Meta.

 

My helpful experience buying a ticket and boarding the boat down the Mekong River.

Ok, hopefully you can learn from this to make your buying and boarding process faster.  You are now in LAOS maybe you came over in the morning, or you spent the previous night in Laos for this it really doesn’t matter as long as you are here now and want to buy your ticket. For me it was an experience in itself.

From the top of the street where customs is where you will need to take a left and start you walk or grab a taxi. It’s about two kilometers up the road so grab a Songthaew/taxi. I had time, so I walked.  For time purposes spend some extra cash, hire a Songthaew alone or with other travelers. Most likely a few are going to the Mekong slow boat dock to purchase tickets anyway.

Once dropped off at the main intersection you will pass by many shops cooking up some delicious Laotian noodles, sticky rice meals, cheap instant coffee, packaged snacks and lots of BeerLao. Remember it’s a border down and the prices flex with the supply and demand. Keep walking down. Buy your Mekong River Slow Boat ticket first because the seats are numbered.  You’ll want to get your seat as close to the front as you can, that would mean as far away from the loud motor in the back. It is possible to b sitting in the motor room on packed boats.

Where is the ticket office? Do they still have tickets? I heard they are sold out!

The ticket office is some what hidden with no direct signs, as of when I last checked.  Confused and looking around you will be spotted by men trying to sell you tickets from their store front or back pocket, but stick to the plan, the office will have tickets for you at cost price. Keep walking, down the main road, literally down to where you see the panorama  of the Mekong River.

Then you will see the last restaurant on your right and the boat ticket office on the left. Head  up the stairs to the building.

Ask for the “Slow Boat to Luang Prabang” depending on the time of the year and who is running the show, tickets may vary slightly. But you’ll be looking at 800-900 Thai Baht, or 150,000 Laos Kip around 25-27 US dollars. In Laos you may use Lao kip, US Dollars and Thai baht. Your choice.

Yes you have your ticket!! Now what?
Go find your seat. Head down the hill, find out on the ticket which boat is yours. There will be a line of boats docked, Depending on the season the number varies. I was boat number 003 Seat 1, the first in line and the fist on the boat.

If you are not the first and you are among the hordes of travelers relax, you have made it this far, walk your way down docking ground, walk up the narrow 3 meter plank  watch your head and step onto the wooden floors of the Mekong River’s finest of travel boats.

Find your seat. Easy, they are numbered, the numbers are in accordance to your ticket stub. From the front of the boat Rule of thumb is the seats start in the rows facing forward from 1,2  split by the isle then 3,4. The next row 5,6  with an isle, 7,8 and so on all the way back to the mini snack bar, toilet and motor in the back.

However the seats that are 71-90 are in the front, but face inward to give you a view of the persons face sitting across from you. From my experience the worst seats were not seats at all, a group of European guys had to sit on some luggage in the engine room behind the toilet. It was awfully hot and loud and exhausting- pun intended.

Alone or with friends, either way you’ll meet interesting people so where ever you sit, be open to having a conversation to help pass the time.

Once on board  get comfortable, or at least try.  You will be on for 6-10 hours until you arrive in PakeBeng where you will all have to get out, happily for an overnight stay.